HEIGHT & WEIGHT DATA FOR DANES
When reading the below, remember that all pups follow their own guide, and grow at their own rate.
That said, here is a general guide:
Birth weight: 1-2 lbs.
Week 1: 2-3 lbs.
Week 2: 3-5 lbs.
Week 3: 4-7 lbs.
Week 4: 5-8 lbs.
Week 6: 10-20 lbs.
Month 2: 15-30 lbs. (13-17” inches at the shoulders)
Month 3: 30-45 lbs. (17-22" inches at the shoulders)
Month 4: 50-65 lbs. (21-25" inches at the shoulders)
Month 5: 65-85 lbs. (25-30" inches at the shoulders)
Month 6: 70-100 lbs. (27-32" inches at the shoulders)
Month 7: 75-110 lbs. (27-33" inches at the shoulders)
Month 8: 80-115 lbs. (27-34" inches at the shoulders)
Month 9: 85-120 lbs. (28-34" inches at the shoulders)
One year: 90-135 lbs. (28-36" inches at the shoulders)
Full grown: 100-190 lbs. (28-38" inches at the shoulders)
For males: 140-170 lbs. & 33-36" is typical.
for females: 110-140 lbs. & 30-33" is typical.
LESS IS BETTER when it comes to growth in the first year. All Danes fed adequately will
eventually reach their genetically programmed height & weight; don't rush to own the biggest
Dane baby on the block!
And don't forget that most people exaggerate the size of their pup when measuring &
telling others how big he is. (And some people are not above using these charts to be able to
exaggerate, or answering your "stats" with bigger stats, just to "beat" you.)
Some Danes weigh less than this chart indicates & a few may weigh more; but more in this case is probably
an indication the pup is being overfed & growing too fast (or the dog in question is too fat). If not ‘fat’, he
is likely over boned- so he *really* then needs to stay slim, as heavy boned dogs are more prone to joint &
bone problems.
**Remember the only requirement under the Dane standard is 28"inches for females & 30"inches for males
(and that was generally intended to apply specifically to adult Danes) **
When there was a weight guide in the standard a 28" female was expected to weigh 100 lbs. & a 30" male
weigh 120 lbs. Balance is what the standard calls for!
Typical Great Dane Puppy Growth Spurts:
Weekly: 1‐ 6 weeks old
Bi‐Weekly: 6, 8, 10, 12 weeks old
Monthly: 3, 4, 5 months
Occasionally: 5 months – 8 months
Major growth spurts are over around 8 – 9 months of age
*BUT Great Danes are not considered fully grown until 20 – 24 months of age!!
When reading the below, remember that all pups follow their own guide, and grow at their own rate.
That said, here is a general guide:
Birth weight: 1-2 lbs.
Week 1: 2-3 lbs.
Week 2: 3-5 lbs.
Week 3: 4-7 lbs.
Week 4: 5-8 lbs.
Week 6: 10-20 lbs.
Month 2: 15-30 lbs. (13-17” inches at the shoulders)
Month 3: 30-45 lbs. (17-22" inches at the shoulders)
Month 4: 50-65 lbs. (21-25" inches at the shoulders)
Month 5: 65-85 lbs. (25-30" inches at the shoulders)
Month 6: 70-100 lbs. (27-32" inches at the shoulders)
Month 7: 75-110 lbs. (27-33" inches at the shoulders)
Month 8: 80-115 lbs. (27-34" inches at the shoulders)
Month 9: 85-120 lbs. (28-34" inches at the shoulders)
One year: 90-135 lbs. (28-36" inches at the shoulders)
Full grown: 100-190 lbs. (28-38" inches at the shoulders)
For males: 140-170 lbs. & 33-36" is typical.
for females: 110-140 lbs. & 30-33" is typical.
LESS IS BETTER when it comes to growth in the first year. All Danes fed adequately will
eventually reach their genetically programmed height & weight; don't rush to own the biggest
Dane baby on the block!
And don't forget that most people exaggerate the size of their pup when measuring &
telling others how big he is. (And some people are not above using these charts to be able to
exaggerate, or answering your "stats" with bigger stats, just to "beat" you.)
Some Danes weigh less than this chart indicates & a few may weigh more; but more in this case is probably
an indication the pup is being overfed & growing too fast (or the dog in question is too fat). If not ‘fat’, he
is likely over boned- so he *really* then needs to stay slim, as heavy boned dogs are more prone to joint &
bone problems.
**Remember the only requirement under the Dane standard is 28"inches for females & 30"inches for males
(and that was generally intended to apply specifically to adult Danes) **
When there was a weight guide in the standard a 28" female was expected to weigh 100 lbs. & a 30" male
weigh 120 lbs. Balance is what the standard calls for!
Typical Great Dane Puppy Growth Spurts:
Weekly: 1‐ 6 weeks old
Bi‐Weekly: 6, 8, 10, 12 weeks old
Monthly: 3, 4, 5 months
Occasionally: 5 months – 8 months
Major growth spurts are over around 8 – 9 months of age
*BUT Great Danes are not considered fully grown until 20 – 24 months of age!!
When To Vaccinate Your Puppy
As seen in the chart, there is a strict schedule of puppy vaccination, which you should follow. When you get the puppy, check if it has received any vaccines and inform your vet. Whether you are buying or adopting a dog, you should be informed about their medical history.
6 weeks
Core vaccines: DHPP- Distemper(D), Adenovirus (H), Parvovirus (P) Parainfluenza(P). Non-core vaccines: Bordetella, Measles
Vaccines can begin as early as 6 weeks of age. The core vaccines (DHPP) are administered every 2 – 4 weeks until the puppy is at least 16 weeks of age.
This means that you will have regular visits to your vet clinic with your puppy in the first few months.
Some non- core vaccines can be started at this age too if the puppy is classed as a “high risk” of infection, if it lives with lots of other dogs or other dogs it comes into contact with have one of the infections. Bordetella vaccine can be administered to prevent kennel cough infection and measles vaccine can be given to help prevent distemper infection.
8 weeks
Core vaccines: DHPP Non-core vaccines: Coronavirus, Leptospirosis, Bordetella, Lyme disease
12 weeks
your puppy must get the DHPP vaccine, which will protect it from diseases which are actually initials of this vaccine – (D) distemper, (H) hepatitis, (P) parvo and (P) parainfluenza.
16 weeks
Core vaccines: Rabies, DHPP Non-core vaccines: Coronavirus, Leptospirosis, Lyme disease
Rabies affects both humans and animals, and leads to death. Dogs can get the disease if an infected dog or wild animal bites them, or if infected saliva comes in contact with a wound. The best prevention is vaccination, so be responsible and stick to the schedule.
16 months
Core vaccines: Rabies, DHPP Non-core vaccines: Coronavirus, Leptospirosis, Bordetella, Lyme disease
Your dog will need to get a booster of DHPP and a vaccine against rabies. The vaccines aren’t effective if your puppy gets only one and you forget about the booster.
The DHPP is then given to dogs every 1 to 3 years.
Vaccine against rabies is given every 1 to 3 years, depending on where you live and as required by law.
As seen in the chart, there is a strict schedule of puppy vaccination, which you should follow. When you get the puppy, check if it has received any vaccines and inform your vet. Whether you are buying or adopting a dog, you should be informed about their medical history.
6 weeks
Core vaccines: DHPP- Distemper(D), Adenovirus (H), Parvovirus (P) Parainfluenza(P). Non-core vaccines: Bordetella, Measles
Vaccines can begin as early as 6 weeks of age. The core vaccines (DHPP) are administered every 2 – 4 weeks until the puppy is at least 16 weeks of age.
This means that you will have regular visits to your vet clinic with your puppy in the first few months.
Some non- core vaccines can be started at this age too if the puppy is classed as a “high risk” of infection, if it lives with lots of other dogs or other dogs it comes into contact with have one of the infections. Bordetella vaccine can be administered to prevent kennel cough infection and measles vaccine can be given to help prevent distemper infection.
8 weeks
Core vaccines: DHPP Non-core vaccines: Coronavirus, Leptospirosis, Bordetella, Lyme disease
12 weeks
your puppy must get the DHPP vaccine, which will protect it from diseases which are actually initials of this vaccine – (D) distemper, (H) hepatitis, (P) parvo and (P) parainfluenza.
16 weeks
Core vaccines: Rabies, DHPP Non-core vaccines: Coronavirus, Leptospirosis, Lyme disease
Rabies affects both humans and animals, and leads to death. Dogs can get the disease if an infected dog or wild animal bites them, or if infected saliva comes in contact with a wound. The best prevention is vaccination, so be responsible and stick to the schedule.
16 months
Core vaccines: Rabies, DHPP Non-core vaccines: Coronavirus, Leptospirosis, Bordetella, Lyme disease
Your dog will need to get a booster of DHPP and a vaccine against rabies. The vaccines aren’t effective if your puppy gets only one and you forget about the booster.
The DHPP is then given to dogs every 1 to 3 years.
Vaccine against rabies is given every 1 to 3 years, depending on where you live and as required by law.
Crate Training Your Puppy
It only takes a moment for a puppy to potty on the rug, chew a shoe, or do some other unwanted behavior. That
is why it is important to provide a crate for your puppy. Using a crate helps to prevent unwanted accidents of
any kind. Your dog will see their crate as a den like safe place of their own. If properly trained, your dog will
love their crate and seek it out. Do not think of it like a cage or punishment. Used properly a crate is like a
playpen for a puppy, then like a personal bedroom for an adult dog.
Size
Start by making sure the size of your crate matches your dog. There should only be enough room for your dog
to go in, turn around and lie down. Anything larger is too big and will allow your puppy to relieve himself in
one half of the crate and sleep in the other half.
Placement
Dogs like to be near others. Try to put the crate in an area of your home where you spend most your time. Once
the dog enjoys the crate you may move it to a more convenient location. My puppies have two crates, one in the
living room and one in the master bedroom for bed time.
Acclimation
Get your dog accustomed to the crate by placing their food in the crate and allowing them to eat with the door
open. If the dog is very timid start by placing the food at the thresh hold and slowly moving the bowl inside the
crate. You should praise the dog for going into the crate, but never for coming out. You can also leave the door
open and place treats inside for the dog to discover.
When you believe the dog is ready to be in the crate with the door closed; close the door, lock it and then open
it immediately. Let them come out when they are ready. Slowly increase the amount of time the dog is locked in
the crate. You may want to vary where you stand while the dog is crated; in the room, or in another room, with
in sight or completely out of sight. If every time the dog is crated they are left alone in the house for hours they
will associate crating with separation for their family.
Our dogs are trained with the command “go to bed”, which means go to your room or crate and wait quietly for
me. To start teaching this command stand next to the door of the crate with your dog. State the command then
toss a treat into the crate to entice the dog to walk into the crate. Do not reward the dog with a treat every time
they obey the command but always give positive reinforcement.
If your dog barks, you MUST completely ignore the dog. Do not scold, make eye contact, un lock the door or
even acknowledge the dog. Doing so will reinforce their noisy behavior. Never let your dog out of the crate
while they are making noise. Wait for the instant they stop barking before opening the door.
Accessories
The only thing that should be in the crate with your dog is an indestructible toy or nylabone. Rawhides and soft
toys can obstruct the bowl if swallowed and pose a choking hazard or for pets if they are not attended while
chewing on them. Placing food or water in with them can cause them to have accidents. There should not be
bedding of any kind if you are house breaking your dog. Bedding can be pushed aside after being soiled causing
set backs in housebreaking. Bedding can also be torn apart and ingested, causing injury.
When done properly, crate training your dog benefits you both.
Firstly; you prevent the development of misbehavior and save your home & belongings from a
teething puppy. Secondly; you will have a safe, comfortable & trusted place to put your dog so
that you needn’t worry about them when you can’t watch them.
Thirdly; they will have a safe, comfortable & trusted place they enjoy that is all their own.
It only takes a moment for a puppy to potty on the rug, chew a shoe, or do some other unwanted behavior. That
is why it is important to provide a crate for your puppy. Using a crate helps to prevent unwanted accidents of
any kind. Your dog will see their crate as a den like safe place of their own. If properly trained, your dog will
love their crate and seek it out. Do not think of it like a cage or punishment. Used properly a crate is like a
playpen for a puppy, then like a personal bedroom for an adult dog.
Size
Start by making sure the size of your crate matches your dog. There should only be enough room for your dog
to go in, turn around and lie down. Anything larger is too big and will allow your puppy to relieve himself in
one half of the crate and sleep in the other half.
Placement
Dogs like to be near others. Try to put the crate in an area of your home where you spend most your time. Once
the dog enjoys the crate you may move it to a more convenient location. My puppies have two crates, one in the
living room and one in the master bedroom for bed time.
Acclimation
Get your dog accustomed to the crate by placing their food in the crate and allowing them to eat with the door
open. If the dog is very timid start by placing the food at the thresh hold and slowly moving the bowl inside the
crate. You should praise the dog for going into the crate, but never for coming out. You can also leave the door
open and place treats inside for the dog to discover.
When you believe the dog is ready to be in the crate with the door closed; close the door, lock it and then open
it immediately. Let them come out when they are ready. Slowly increase the amount of time the dog is locked in
the crate. You may want to vary where you stand while the dog is crated; in the room, or in another room, with
in sight or completely out of sight. If every time the dog is crated they are left alone in the house for hours they
will associate crating with separation for their family.
Our dogs are trained with the command “go to bed”, which means go to your room or crate and wait quietly for
me. To start teaching this command stand next to the door of the crate with your dog. State the command then
toss a treat into the crate to entice the dog to walk into the crate. Do not reward the dog with a treat every time
they obey the command but always give positive reinforcement.
If your dog barks, you MUST completely ignore the dog. Do not scold, make eye contact, un lock the door or
even acknowledge the dog. Doing so will reinforce their noisy behavior. Never let your dog out of the crate
while they are making noise. Wait for the instant they stop barking before opening the door.
Accessories
The only thing that should be in the crate with your dog is an indestructible toy or nylabone. Rawhides and soft
toys can obstruct the bowl if swallowed and pose a choking hazard or for pets if they are not attended while
chewing on them. Placing food or water in with them can cause them to have accidents. There should not be
bedding of any kind if you are house breaking your dog. Bedding can be pushed aside after being soiled causing
set backs in housebreaking. Bedding can also be torn apart and ingested, causing injury.
When done properly, crate training your dog benefits you both.
Firstly; you prevent the development of misbehavior and save your home & belongings from a
teething puppy. Secondly; you will have a safe, comfortable & trusted place to put your dog so
that you needn’t worry about them when you can’t watch them.
Thirdly; they will have a safe, comfortable & trusted place they enjoy that is all their own.
AMOUNTS TO FEED LARGE / GIANT BREEDS
USING THE CHART
This chart is base the assumption that a dog may be crated or less active during the day while the owner is at work. Use this guideline to help prevent growth diseases in puppies ( HOD). The most sensitive time for growth problems is from 2 months - 6 months of age, with the most common being 11-16 weeks of age. Giants (Danes, Newfies, Pyers, Irish Wolfhounds etc.).
On the chart below, start with the low end amounts (females) and on males use the mid-range amounts. They should not be fed at the high end amount until they are in the at least 1/2 way through the month. Example:
GIANTS - start females on the low end amounts on chart and males on the mid range amounts.
2 months or 8 weeks = 2-4 cups per day - (divided into 3 meals daily)
3 months or 12 weeks = 3-5 cups per day - (divided into 2 meals daily)
4 months or 16 weeks = 4-6 cups per day - (divided into 2 meals daily)
5 months or 20 weeks = 5-7 cups per day - (divided into 2 meals daily
6 months or 24 weeks = 6-8 cups per day - (divided into 2 meals daily)
7 months 6-9 cups per day - (divided into 2 meals daily)
8 months..... 6-9 cups per day - (divided into 2 meals daily)
9 months..... 7-10 cups per day- (divided into 2 meals daily)
10 - 12 months....7-10 cups per day - (divided into 2 meals daily)
12 -18 months males - 8-10 cups a day (divided into 2 meals daily)
12 -18 month females -6-9 cups a day (divided into w meals daily
USING THE CHART
This chart is base the assumption that a dog may be crated or less active during the day while the owner is at work. Use this guideline to help prevent growth diseases in puppies ( HOD). The most sensitive time for growth problems is from 2 months - 6 months of age, with the most common being 11-16 weeks of age. Giants (Danes, Newfies, Pyers, Irish Wolfhounds etc.).
On the chart below, start with the low end amounts (females) and on males use the mid-range amounts. They should not be fed at the high end amount until they are in the at least 1/2 way through the month. Example:
GIANTS - start females on the low end amounts on chart and males on the mid range amounts.
2 months or 8 weeks = 2-4 cups per day - (divided into 3 meals daily)
3 months or 12 weeks = 3-5 cups per day - (divided into 2 meals daily)
4 months or 16 weeks = 4-6 cups per day - (divided into 2 meals daily)
5 months or 20 weeks = 5-7 cups per day - (divided into 2 meals daily
6 months or 24 weeks = 6-8 cups per day - (divided into 2 meals daily)
7 months 6-9 cups per day - (divided into 2 meals daily)
8 months..... 6-9 cups per day - (divided into 2 meals daily)
9 months..... 7-10 cups per day- (divided into 2 meals daily)
10 - 12 months....7-10 cups per day - (divided into 2 meals daily)
12 -18 months males - 8-10 cups a day (divided into 2 meals daily)
12 -18 month females -6-9 cups a day (divided into w meals daily
GREAT DANE HEALTH AND RESEARCH
The following health conditions have been identified in the Great Dane. Items in purple can be identified through testing.
Screening tests are not currently available for the other conditions listed. Conditions thought to involve significant & direct inheritance are noted. For those purchasing a pet or intending to breed: it is important to know the health status before breeding any dog or bitch. Clinically affected dogs, i.e., those dogs exhibiting symptoms for conditions considered serious and heritable should generally NOT be bred and health screenings (where available) are certainly recommend. Please note that the text below is intended as an aid to those seeking health information on the breed, and should not be used to form a diagnosis replacing regular veterinary care by a qualified veterinarian.
DCM: CARDIOMYOPATHY
Is suspected to be an inherited disease in the Great Dane and current (preliminary) research indicates that this disease may be sex-linked in our breed. Research is ongoing. An echocardiogram of the heart will confirm the disease but will not guarantee that the disease will not develop in the future. Regular exams on breeding stock are recommended. There are some congenital heart defects also occasionally found in the breed. For an in-depth article on the subject, see “Heart Disease in the Great Dane.”
K9HD: HIP DYSPLASIA
Is an inherited disease with multi-factorial expression. Clinically the disease may be seen as simply poor rear end conformation or lessened athleticism to such malformation of the hip joint that the dog becomes crippled. It is recommend that breeding stock be Xrayed as normal. OFA and PennHIP both offer certification programs.
See OFA and PennHIP.
HYPOTHYROIDISM
And other heritable endocrine disease – Hypothyroidism in dogs is generally the result of a heritable disorder of the immune system. This condition results when the thyroid gland is not producing enough hormone to adequately maintain the dog’s metabolism. Happily, it is easily treated with thyroid replacement pills. Thyroid testing (T4, TSH and autoantibodies) on breeding stock should be performed on a routine basis. Finding autoantibodies to thyroglobulin is normally an indication that the dog has autoimmune thyroiditis. Low thyroid dogs, manifested by a high TSH and a low T4, should be treated and monitored on a regular basis. Dogs with confirmed thyroid abnormalities should not be bred. Another autoimmune endocrine disease that can affect the breed is Addison’s disease. See the link on Addison’s Disease Info in the Research section to learn more about both the ongoing research project as well as how to diagnose and treat dogs with Addison’s disease.
CATARACTS
Not common, cataracts have been described in the Great Dane and can be blinding. Eyelid abnormalies (e.g. entropion) are also not unheard of in the breed. For breeding stock a CERF exam can insure that the eyes are normal in all aspects.
GDV: BLOAT
Is the number one killer of Great Danes & Great Danes are the #1 breed at risk for bloat. For reasons not fully understood, in certain deep-chested breeds in particular, the stomach distends, then has a tendency to rotate, which cuts off the blood supply to various parts of the body, as well as effectively shutting down digestion. This condition is extremely painful as well as a true emergency that is rapidly life threatening. A dog with a bloated, twisted stomach (technically called “Gastric Dilatation and Volvulus”) will die in great pain in a matter of hours unless drastic steps are taken: surgery is normally necessary. The reasons for GDV are currently not understood, however most would agree that multiple small meals per day and preventing vigorous exercise around mealtimes can help reduce the chances of bloat. Many breeders and owners of Great Danes consider a surgery called a prophylactic gastropexy (“preventative tack”) which can help prevent some of the more serious aspects of GDV. Discuss this with your veterinarian and your Dane’s breeder. Click HERE to find a detailed chart on dealing with bloat/torsion and see also here a chart on prophylactic gastropexy (the preventitive “tack” surgery). Note that most of forms of a “tack” can now be done through laproscopic surgery. Discuss the options available with your veterinarian.
CANCER
Danes can suffer from a variety of cancers as do many other breeds of dogs as well as many mixed breed dogs. Bone cancer (osteosarcoma) and lymphoma appear to be the two forms of cancer most commonly seen in the Great Dane, and along with heart disease and bloat (GDV), cancer is a leading cause of death in Great Danes. Research into both types of cancer is ongoing and treatment options are improving every day. See The Genetics of Cancer
WOBBLERS SYNDROME
Is a result of pressure on the spinal cord in the neck region and results in a “drunken” gait & increasing instability & potential paralysis. The congenital form of Wobblers in Danes usually presents in adolescent Danes and is the result of a malformation of the cervical vertebrae thought to result from a combination of nutritional effects and inherited traits; it is considered a form of DOD (Developmental Osteodystrophy) and is referred to as cervical vertebral malformation or CVM. A whiplash sort of traumatic injury to such long-necked dogs as Danes can occur in adult dogs and can also be referred to as “Wobblers” or cervical vertebral instability (CVI). Great Danes are considered at risk for both congenital & trauma induced “Wobblers.” Ronaldo da Costa, DVM, DMV, MSc, PhD, Dipl ACVIM-Neurology, at Ohio State University in conducting research into the cause & treatment of Wobblers & can be reached at the following email: Ronaldo.daCosta@cvm.osu.edu
HOD and Pano
These are painful conditions of the bones that occur during the rapid growth phase of puppyhood causing lameness and general malaise. By far HOD is the more serious one and can be deadly. Pano is usually self-limiting and may not need treatment. HOD stands for Hypertrophic Osteodystrophy. Pano is short for Panosteitis. Information on growth and other puppy issues is available HERE.
There is an ongoing study recruiting both puppies who currently have HOD as well as adults who suffered from HOD as puppies. Please contact Dr. Alison Starr-Moss to participate: ASTARR@clemson.edu
The following health conditions have been identified in the Great Dane. Items in purple can be identified through testing.
Screening tests are not currently available for the other conditions listed. Conditions thought to involve significant & direct inheritance are noted. For those purchasing a pet or intending to breed: it is important to know the health status before breeding any dog or bitch. Clinically affected dogs, i.e., those dogs exhibiting symptoms for conditions considered serious and heritable should generally NOT be bred and health screenings (where available) are certainly recommend. Please note that the text below is intended as an aid to those seeking health information on the breed, and should not be used to form a diagnosis replacing regular veterinary care by a qualified veterinarian.
DCM: CARDIOMYOPATHY
Is suspected to be an inherited disease in the Great Dane and current (preliminary) research indicates that this disease may be sex-linked in our breed. Research is ongoing. An echocardiogram of the heart will confirm the disease but will not guarantee that the disease will not develop in the future. Regular exams on breeding stock are recommended. There are some congenital heart defects also occasionally found in the breed. For an in-depth article on the subject, see “Heart Disease in the Great Dane.”
K9HD: HIP DYSPLASIA
Is an inherited disease with multi-factorial expression. Clinically the disease may be seen as simply poor rear end conformation or lessened athleticism to such malformation of the hip joint that the dog becomes crippled. It is recommend that breeding stock be Xrayed as normal. OFA and PennHIP both offer certification programs.
See OFA and PennHIP.
HYPOTHYROIDISM
And other heritable endocrine disease – Hypothyroidism in dogs is generally the result of a heritable disorder of the immune system. This condition results when the thyroid gland is not producing enough hormone to adequately maintain the dog’s metabolism. Happily, it is easily treated with thyroid replacement pills. Thyroid testing (T4, TSH and autoantibodies) on breeding stock should be performed on a routine basis. Finding autoantibodies to thyroglobulin is normally an indication that the dog has autoimmune thyroiditis. Low thyroid dogs, manifested by a high TSH and a low T4, should be treated and monitored on a regular basis. Dogs with confirmed thyroid abnormalities should not be bred. Another autoimmune endocrine disease that can affect the breed is Addison’s disease. See the link on Addison’s Disease Info in the Research section to learn more about both the ongoing research project as well as how to diagnose and treat dogs with Addison’s disease.
CATARACTS
Not common, cataracts have been described in the Great Dane and can be blinding. Eyelid abnormalies (e.g. entropion) are also not unheard of in the breed. For breeding stock a CERF exam can insure that the eyes are normal in all aspects.
GDV: BLOAT
Is the number one killer of Great Danes & Great Danes are the #1 breed at risk for bloat. For reasons not fully understood, in certain deep-chested breeds in particular, the stomach distends, then has a tendency to rotate, which cuts off the blood supply to various parts of the body, as well as effectively shutting down digestion. This condition is extremely painful as well as a true emergency that is rapidly life threatening. A dog with a bloated, twisted stomach (technically called “Gastric Dilatation and Volvulus”) will die in great pain in a matter of hours unless drastic steps are taken: surgery is normally necessary. The reasons for GDV are currently not understood, however most would agree that multiple small meals per day and preventing vigorous exercise around mealtimes can help reduce the chances of bloat. Many breeders and owners of Great Danes consider a surgery called a prophylactic gastropexy (“preventative tack”) which can help prevent some of the more serious aspects of GDV. Discuss this with your veterinarian and your Dane’s breeder. Click HERE to find a detailed chart on dealing with bloat/torsion and see also here a chart on prophylactic gastropexy (the preventitive “tack” surgery). Note that most of forms of a “tack” can now be done through laproscopic surgery. Discuss the options available with your veterinarian.
CANCER
Danes can suffer from a variety of cancers as do many other breeds of dogs as well as many mixed breed dogs. Bone cancer (osteosarcoma) and lymphoma appear to be the two forms of cancer most commonly seen in the Great Dane, and along with heart disease and bloat (GDV), cancer is a leading cause of death in Great Danes. Research into both types of cancer is ongoing and treatment options are improving every day. See The Genetics of Cancer
WOBBLERS SYNDROME
Is a result of pressure on the spinal cord in the neck region and results in a “drunken” gait & increasing instability & potential paralysis. The congenital form of Wobblers in Danes usually presents in adolescent Danes and is the result of a malformation of the cervical vertebrae thought to result from a combination of nutritional effects and inherited traits; it is considered a form of DOD (Developmental Osteodystrophy) and is referred to as cervical vertebral malformation or CVM. A whiplash sort of traumatic injury to such long-necked dogs as Danes can occur in adult dogs and can also be referred to as “Wobblers” or cervical vertebral instability (CVI). Great Danes are considered at risk for both congenital & trauma induced “Wobblers.” Ronaldo da Costa, DVM, DMV, MSc, PhD, Dipl ACVIM-Neurology, at Ohio State University in conducting research into the cause & treatment of Wobblers & can be reached at the following email: Ronaldo.daCosta@cvm.osu.edu
HOD and Pano
These are painful conditions of the bones that occur during the rapid growth phase of puppyhood causing lameness and general malaise. By far HOD is the more serious one and can be deadly. Pano is usually self-limiting and may not need treatment. HOD stands for Hypertrophic Osteodystrophy. Pano is short for Panosteitis. Information on growth and other puppy issues is available HERE.
There is an ongoing study recruiting both puppies who currently have HOD as well as adults who suffered from HOD as puppies. Please contact Dr. Alison Starr-Moss to participate: ASTARR@clemson.edu
How To Prevent Bloat in Great Danes?
Feeding small meals helps avoid bloat in Great Danes. Divide the food into smaller meals and serve it to your dog 4 to 5 times a day.
Ensure that your dog does not indulge in overeating.
Avoid using a raised bowl while feeding your dog.
Do not run or play with your dog after he has his meals.
Let your dog eat slowly and drink a normal amount of water.
Soak kibbles for 5-10 minutes before serving them to your dog.
Don’t allow your dog to drink soon after meals.
Let your dog rest and stay calm following his meals.
Avoid soybean-based dog food or that with a higher fat content, as these may increase the risk of bloat in Great Danes.
Make sure your dog is not excited or stressed while eating.
Any diet change should be gradual.
Feeding small meals helps avoid bloat in Great Danes. Divide the food into smaller meals and serve it to your dog 4 to 5 times a day.
Ensure that your dog does not indulge in overeating.
Avoid using a raised bowl while feeding your dog.
Do not run or play with your dog after he has his meals.
Let your dog eat slowly and drink a normal amount of water.
Soak kibbles for 5-10 minutes before serving them to your dog.
Don’t allow your dog to drink soon after meals.
Let your dog rest and stay calm following his meals.
Avoid soybean-based dog food or that with a higher fat content, as these may increase the risk of bloat in Great Danes.
Make sure your dog is not excited or stressed while eating.
Any diet change should be gradual.
House training your puppy
Keep a schedule;
Be sure to feed & water your puppy on a consistent schedule.
Puppies will need to potty with in 15 minutes of eats and/or drinking.
Food and water should be restricted in the evening. This will help your dog make it through the night with out
any accidents.
Puppies will need to potty immediately after awakening.
Puppies will need to potty after play sessions.
Take them out frequently;
Take them out when they get up
Take them out before they go to bed
Take them out 15 minutes after they eat
Take them out 15 minutes after they drink
Take them out after you play with them
Take them out every time you let them out of their cage
Watch them inside consistently;
Watch the puppy at all times.
Watch for signs; circling, sniffing, whining, anxiousness, etc...
If you are unable to give the puppy your undivided attention put the puppy in their crate.
When to praise;
Any of the above signs should result in taking the pup out side & praise!!!
Praise each, AND EVERY, time they finish pottying out side; not just a little praise, make a big deal!
When to punish;
The only time punishment is effective is if you catch the puppy in the act!!! Any other times of punishment will
delay successful house breaking.
If you catch the puppy in the act, startle them by clapping your hands loudly & say “NO”
This will stop the puppy in mid stream.
Do not immediately take the puppy out side. Rather watch them closely for five minutes and then take them out
side. This will separate the bad behavior, (pottying in the house), from the good behavior, (Pottying outside).
When the puppy goes outside PRAISE!!!
The key to successful house breaking is not punishing the mistake; rather it is
eliminating the opportunity for the mistake to occur. This will require the owner to
pay close attention to the puppy’s schedule and signals. If house breaking is
approached in this systematic order, the process will be successful.
**To start house training, we recommend setting a kitchen timer for every 15-20min,
when the timer goes off we go outside. If potty happens we give HUGE praise!
No matter what, when we come back inside we reset the timer.
And repeat it again in 15-20 min**
Crate training is useful for many reasons while training your puppy.
Housebreaking is no exception!! Use a crate or be prepared to clean up
at least one mess every morning.
Keep a schedule;
Be sure to feed & water your puppy on a consistent schedule.
Puppies will need to potty with in 15 minutes of eats and/or drinking.
Food and water should be restricted in the evening. This will help your dog make it through the night with out
any accidents.
Puppies will need to potty immediately after awakening.
Puppies will need to potty after play sessions.
Take them out frequently;
Take them out when they get up
Take them out before they go to bed
Take them out 15 minutes after they eat
Take them out 15 minutes after they drink
Take them out after you play with them
Take them out every time you let them out of their cage
Watch them inside consistently;
Watch the puppy at all times.
Watch for signs; circling, sniffing, whining, anxiousness, etc...
If you are unable to give the puppy your undivided attention put the puppy in their crate.
When to praise;
Any of the above signs should result in taking the pup out side & praise!!!
Praise each, AND EVERY, time they finish pottying out side; not just a little praise, make a big deal!
When to punish;
The only time punishment is effective is if you catch the puppy in the act!!! Any other times of punishment will
delay successful house breaking.
If you catch the puppy in the act, startle them by clapping your hands loudly & say “NO”
This will stop the puppy in mid stream.
Do not immediately take the puppy out side. Rather watch them closely for five minutes and then take them out
side. This will separate the bad behavior, (pottying in the house), from the good behavior, (Pottying outside).
When the puppy goes outside PRAISE!!!
The key to successful house breaking is not punishing the mistake; rather it is
eliminating the opportunity for the mistake to occur. This will require the owner to
pay close attention to the puppy’s schedule and signals. If house breaking is
approached in this systematic order, the process will be successful.
**To start house training, we recommend setting a kitchen timer for every 15-20min,
when the timer goes off we go outside. If potty happens we give HUGE praise!
No matter what, when we come back inside we reset the timer.
And repeat it again in 15-20 min**
Crate training is useful for many reasons while training your puppy.
Housebreaking is no exception!! Use a crate or be prepared to clean up
at least one mess every morning.